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Coralline Growth FAQ

By: Gregory S. Taylor

This is my 55 Gallon Shrine to Coralline. (Click on the pic for higher resolution) Due to the number and frequency of questions I've received regarding this tank, I decided to write this article on what I know about Coralline and Coralline growth.



Calcium

I've never been able to get the Calcium levels in this tank over 360. During the greatest period of Coralline growth, the Calcium levels fell in the range of 290 - 330. I have never regularly dosed Calcium, other than temporary attempts of raising the Calcium levels. These attempts usually lasted two weeks before I gave up due to lack of results. During these attempts at raising Calcium levels, Kent's two part Tech-CB was the product used. Ten to twenty percent water changes were performed every 2 to 4 weeks depending on how busy I happened to be. This seemed to affect Calcium levels more than any dosing I attempted.

Alkalinity & pH

Around six months before the above picture was taken I began keeping a much closer eye on my alkalinity and pH. At that time, the tank was running a pH of 7.9 and an alkalinity of < 5 dKH (1.8 meq/L). I began buffering with Kent Pro-buffer dKH to bring up my alkalinity and pH. From that point on, the tank has maintained a pH of 8.3 and alkalinity range between 9 - 11 dKH (3.2 - 3.9 meq/L). This is the factor I believe has the most relevance to the success of Coralline in this tank.

Lighting

Lighting is very important with Coralline growth. Different species of Coralline have different lighting requirements. Any time you upgrade your lighting, you will experience Coralline die-off. However, new Coralline will replace it quickly, and usually it will come back better and more deeply colored than before. Three months before the above picture was taken, I upgraded from 2 48" NO bulbs (total of 80 watts) to 2 48" VHO bulbs (total of 220 watts). This resulted in the Coralline turning white around the edges (As Coralline dies and grows the edges of the it looked "bleached"), and dying back. After about a month the die off stopped and quickly reversed into a growth that within 2 months resulted in the above picture. I have again downgraded the tank since the picture to 80 watts of light, and the Coralline growth is still excellent, but not as striking as the picture. Bulb type in all cases was one aquasun and one actinic.

Predators

Coralline does have predators, and I have a few in this tank. There is about 4 dozen snails, 3 dozen hermit crabs (scarlet and blue-legged), and a Coral Beauty in the tank, which do "pick" on the Coralline. I've watched all of them "munch" on the Coralline, but I've seen no adverse effects long-term. I do not consider them to be serious threats. Starfish on the other hand can do a lot of damage to Coralline in a short period of time. My Chocolate chip starfish could destroy a circle of Coralline 2" in diameter in a matter of 30 minutes. I've heard reports of other smaller types of starfish also feeding on Coralline.

Competitors

Coralline does have competition. There is an infinite number of nuisance algae and macro-algae that will compete for both space and light needed by the Coralline. You will need to keep them under control to allow the Coralline to take hold. I have noticed that well colonized Coralline rock will not be infested by hair algae as quickly as rock without Coralline.

Bio-load

I do not know how much impact bio-load has on Coralline growth, but I can say that the tank pictured above has had an extremely low bio-load. During several of the six months prior to the picture above, the tank had no fish or corals whatsoever. The highest load has been 3 small fish (2 false Perculas and a Coral Beauty) and 2 corals.

Seed

There is much more chance for success if you are starting with at least one rock with substantial growth. When shopping for LR, I'm always looking for good color and Coralline growth. I've heard of people using Coralline shavings to "seed" the tank, but I've never tried it so I don't know whether it works or not.

Water Current

High water flow seems to be a common theme for success in all the tanks I've seen with heavy Coralline growth. The 55 gallon tank pictured above gets roughly 1000 gph turnover. I suggest putting a powerhead directed on a LR with good Coralline angled toward the rock you'd like to have Coralline on. This seems to aid in the spread of the algae, although I never did this in the tank above, I let nature take its course. I'm more patient than most.


Here's a picture of my favorite Coralline encrusted tank.

The owner's (toptank on most forums) comments on how he maintains this beautiful tank:

My lighting is 2 X 250 MH 12,000K and 2 X 96 PC 10,000K. I run both MH for 10 hrs and PC for 12 hrs. I am using at this time DO water but I have ordered RO/DI unit. I dose B-Ionic daily and have been doing that for 9 months. Every now and then I add 2 ml of Reef ca if my ca started to fall below 410ppm, it normally ranges from 425 to 460ppm. My alkalinity ranges from 9.2 to 10.6dKh (3.3 to 3.8 meq/L). I feed my tank DT's twice weekly. I dose 10 drops of Iodine daily.
You can see more pictures of this awesome tank at toptank's website http://barryreef.homestead.com/index.html
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If you have any comments, questions, or recommendations, please e-mail me at greg@saltyzoo.com.

This page last updated on: June 8, 2003

Copyright © 2001 by Gregory S. Taylor. All Rights Reserved. No part of this site may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any electronic or mechanical means, without permission in writing from Gregory S. Taylor.